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Lady Morgan’s Memoirs
Chapter VIII
INTRODUCTION & INDEXES
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Preface
Vol. I Contents.
Prefatory Address
Chapter I
Chapter II
Chapter III
Chapter IV
Chapter V
Chapter VI
Chapter VII
Chapter VIII
Chapter IX
Chapter X
Chapter XI
Chapter XII
Chapter XIII
Chapter XIV
Chapter XV
Chapter XVI
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XIX
Chapter XX
Chapter XXI
Chapter XXII
Chapter XXIII
Chapter XXIV
Chapter XXV
Chapter XXVI
Chapter XXVII
Chapter XXVIII
Chapter XXIX
Chapter XXX
Chapter XXXI
Chapter XXXII
Chapter XXXIII
Chapter XXXIV
Chapter XXXV
Chapter XXXVI
Chapter XXXVII
Chapter XXXVIII
Vol. I Index
Vol. II Contents
Chapter I
Chapter II
Chapter III
Chapter IV
Chapter V
Chapter IV
Chapter VII
‣ Chapter VIII
Chapter IX
Chapter X
Chapter XI
Chapter XII
Chapter XIII
Chapter XIV
Chapter XV
Chapter XVI
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XIX
Chapter XX
Chapter XXI
Chapter XXII
Chapter XXIII
Chapter XXIV
Chapter XXV
Chapter XXVI
Chapter XXVII
Chapter XXVIII
Chapter XXIX
Chapter XXX
Chapter XXXI
Chapter XXXII
Chapter XXXIII
Chapter XXXIV
Chapter XXXV
Chapter XXXVI
Chapter XXXVII
Chapter XXXVIII
Chapter XXXIX
Chapter XL
Vol. II Index
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CHAPTER VIII.
LETTERS AND GOSSIP.

A letter, from excellent Lady Charleville, carries us back to the time when Tales of the Hall, Mazeppa, and Don Juan, were the “last new poems!”

Lady Charleville to Lady Morgan.
London,
July 13, 1819.
My dear Madam,

Had I required to learn the uncertainty of all human projects being fulfilled, my now sad tale had taught it me. After a consultation here, a warm climate was held to be good for Lord Charleville, and I had no doubt of quitting England forthwith, but my son’s illness forbids our emigration; thus sinks, for the second time, to the ground, my hope of selfish relief for myself, and advantage to my children by foreign travel, and observation of man in other climes. Upon receipt of your kind letter, I went to Colburn, whose
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answer, perfectly unsatisfactory as to fact, was to require your address, which I have sent.
Florence Macarthy is in the fifth edition, and it has been dramatised with good effect at the Surrey Theatre, where the Heart of Mid Lothian was better arranged by far than at Covent Garden! Lord Byron’s Mazeppa has a beautiful description of wild horses, that makes amends for every line of the other trifles which swell his pamphlet, and Crabbe’s Tales of the Hall have the nature and morality of his former works, and are still more prosaic. Scott’s new tales offer one very beautiful story—The Bride of Lammermoor—and one bloody and dull Legend of Montrose. Lord Byron’s Don Juan I have not yet got; but I hear it is not personal, but very impious and very immoral; however, this may be as false as the other distorted account of it, and, write what he may, his is a great genius unhappily directed.

Lord and Lady Westmeath’s separation for temper, and the overthrow of Lord Belfast’s marriage and fortunes, by Lord Shaftesbury having discovered that the Marquis and Marchioness of Donegal were married under age by licence, and not by banns, which renders it illegal, and bastardizes their children irreparably, is the greatest news of the upper circles at present. The young lady had said she married only for money; therefore, for her, no pity is shown; but poor Lord Belfast, to lose rank, fortune, and wife at once, at twenty years of age, is a strong and painful catastrophe to bear properly. I hear Mr. Chichester (rightful heir now) behaves well; but he cannot prevent the
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entail affecting his heirs, nor the title descending to him from his cousin.

There have been half a dozen marriages, and another dozen are about to take place. Lady J. Moore to Mr. William Peele; Lord Temple, Lady M. Campbell; Mr. Neville, Lady Jane Cornwallis; Mr. Packenham, Miss Ponsonby, and so on, &c.

This letter is a true account of a most agitating, frightful state of mind, that required all the effort that I was capable of to enable me to seem like other people before my dear child, for he judged his state by my impressions of it as they appeared to him, and I did act a difficult and a cruel part, laughing and telling tales to him when I thought all lost!!

Farewell; and to your better pencil I consign all the glories of Italian scenery; may you, in Sir Charles’s health, find a recompence and a joy such as I wish you, to sweeten life and reward your real merits.

PS. I have just finished Don Juan—it is beautifully written, not immoral, not personal. Farewell; I am always your Ladyship’s sincere friend.

C. M. Charleville.
Lady Morgan to Lady Clarke.
Milan,
September 3, 1819.

Here we are again, and here, owing to the kindness and hospitality of our Milanese friends, we sojourn for two days. You never saw such lamentation as our
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departure from Como produced. The
Locks came over in a storm to see us, and we were obliged to contrive beds for some of them, who remained with us all night. The poor dear Fontanas parted from us with tears in their eyes; the Kings said they would follow us, and we had a little crowd of friends round our carriage. All this is very gracious in a foreign country, and, indeed, without vanity, I must say we have hitherto inspired affection and made friends wherever we have been. The moment we reached our Albergo Reale, we had all our old cronies of Milan. A large dinner party was made to day at Count de Porro’s, who has been one of the kindest persons we have met with in Italy; he has two superb villas on the Lake of Como, to which he took us the day before we left Como. It was the festival of the Saint of the Lake; we went to church in the morning where high mass was celebrated by the Bishop; we had the finest opera music that could be selected—I never heard anything so imposing and splendid; in Ireland they have no notion what the catholic religion is. At night we had fireworks on the lake, accompanied by thunder and lightning. There is scarcely a note of printed music, you are obliged to have all copied; but the backwardness of this unfortunate country is incredible. We have just returned from a dinner party, after which we went to pay visits, as is the fashion here, to the Marchesa Trivulgi, who is a patient of Morgan’s at present, and on whose account we remain a day longer than we intended. I will describe one visit that will do for all. The palace Trivulgi is a great dark build-
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ing; we enter the court, which is surrounded by a pillared arcade, and go up a flight of great stone stairs into the waiting-room; the servants permit us to pass in silence, and we continue our route through eight immense and superb rooms, all dimly lighted, the floors marble, and the hangings silk, &c., &c. This suite terminates in a beautiful boudoir, where we found the Marchioness on her canapé, with a small circle of visitors. At nine o’clock, the visiting is over at home, and then the whole world is off for the Opera. Direct your next, Florence, poste restante. S. M.

In contrast with the tone of keen enjoyment in Lady Morgan’s letters, here is one from Madame Jerome Bonaparte. She has come from America to Geneva, and finds herself almost as uneasy in one place as the other. It was as much the custom then to be ruined in America by “commercial speculations,” as it has continued to be since; but whether ruined or prosperous, her letters are always pleasant.

Madame Patterson Bonaparte to Lady Morgan.
Geneva,
October 1, 1819.
My dear Lady Morgan,

Your letter from Casa Fontana reached me yesterday. I cannot imagine the cause of this long delay, as it appears, from the direction you gave me for the 1st of September, that the letter was written previously; the date you neglected putting. I am very anxious to see you again, to assure you of an affection
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which absence has not diminished, to listen to you once more, and to relate to you my adventures since our separation. I had heroically resolved to support the ennui of my fate in America, and should never have ventured another voyage to Europe could I have found the means of education for my son which exist here; but either he must have remained ignorant or I was compelled to leave the repose of my fauteuil, therefore, I did not hesitate to sacrifice my personal comfort for his advantage.

You know we have been nearly ruined in America, by commercial speculations, and even I have suffered, as my tenants are no longer able to pay me the same rents, and the banks have been obliged to diminish the amount of yearly interest which I formerly received from them; these inconveniences are, however momentané, and I flatter myself that in a year or two, tout ira bien; it is, however, provoking enough to find one’s income curtailed at a moment when I most required it; my son’s education, too, demands no inconsiderable expense, and as you know, his father never has and never will contribute a single farthing towards his maintenance. We have no correspondence with him since the demand I made two years ago, which was merely that he would pay some part of his necessary expenditure; this he positively refused, therefore, I consider myself authorized to educate him in my own way. I wish I could see you again; it was so unfortunate for me that you had left Geneva before my arrival. I fear, too, that you will not return this way, and it is impossible for me to leave my son without
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protection in a foreign country. Your
Florence Macarthy is the most delightful creature, and had the greatest success with us; by the way, you should take into consideration with your bookseller in London, the profits which accrue to him from the sale of your works in America, where they are as much sought after as in Europe. This town is intolerably expensive, quite as much so as Paris; there exists, too, an esprit de corps, or de coterie, appalling to strangers,—I mean to woman strangers, for men are les bien venus partout; it is quite à propos that I did not contemplate amusement, or petits soins during my séjour, and that I came seulement par devoir. They have a custom here parmi les gens de haut ton prendre à un prix très élevé des étrangers en pension settlement “pour leur agrément.” In these genteel boarding-houses there is no feast to be found, unless it be the feast of reason; the hosts are too spirituels to imagine that their pemionnaires possess a vulgar appetite for meat and vegetables, tarts and custards, but as I cannot subsist altogether on the contemplation of la belle Nature, I have taken a comfortable apartment for six months, en ville, where I hope I shall get something to eat. La belle nature, Mont Blanc, le Lac de Gènéve, le beau coucher du soleil, le lever magnifique de la lune, are in the mouth of every one here, and paraissant tenir lieu de tout autre chose. I am writing you all this; my letter will, perhaps, never reach you. Adieu, my dear friend; tell Sir Charles everything amiable for me, and be convinced of the sincerity of my affection for you both.

My health is entirely restored, and I am much less
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in the genre larmoyant than when you saw me,—I was so ill, physiquement, that I had not sufficient force to support les maux morales. I am so happy that I did not go to Edinburgh; the climate here is finer; living, although dear enough, cheaper, and the language, French,—more desirable for my son than English, which he knows; in short, à tout prendre, I am better here than I could possibly have been in Great Britain. Why do you persist in living in Ireland? I am sure you would be delightfully circumstanced in any other place.

E. P.

The above would reach Lady Morgan in Florence, at which city she arrived early in October. Before giving her own account of her journey, we present a billet from the Comtesse d’Albany, the widow of Charles Stuart and of Alfieri! The words are little, a mere permission to visit the Ducal library, but gracefully courteous. If we could transfer the autograph to the reader, the clear, firm, round, legible writing,—he would look at it with an interest borrowed from the fortunes of the writer.

The Countess of Albany to Lady Morgan.
Ce Mercredi, Octobre 13, 1819, à 3 heures.

La Comtesse d’Albany n’a pas oublié qu’elle devait procurer a Lady Morgan le plaisir de von la bibliothèque du Grand Duc. Elle sera la maitresse d’y aller Vendredi prochain 18 de Mai depuis dix heures jusqu’a deux ou bien Lundi si ce jour ne lui convient pas.
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Elle est priée de ne pas passer l’heure de deux, le Bibliothècaire étant obligé d’aller à la campagne. La Comtesse d’Albany profite avec empressement de l’occasion d’assurer Lady Morgan de sa considération et de tout ce qui lui est dû.

Lady Morgan to Lady Clark.
Florence, Palazzo Corsini,
October 28th, 1819.

We left you setting off for Florence. At the opera the Counts Confalonieri and Visconti told us we were mistaken, and that we were going with them the next morning to Genoa! Without more ceremony they ran off with our passport to the police and got it changed, and finalemente, as we say in Italy, we set off next day for Genoa. Our journey lay partly over the Apennines; we began to ascend them a little before the purple sunset of Italian skies, and pursued our route by moonlight, and never did any light shine upon scenes more romantically lovely. Nothing was wanting. In the cleft of a mountain we heard a funeral chaunt, and the next moment appeared a procession of monks, their faces covered, and only their eyes seen,—horrible, but strange and new to me. We slept that night on the top of the mountain, and the next day, having walked more than we drove, we beheld “Genoa the superb” at the foot of the Apennines, and the Mediterranean spreading far and wide. Our hotel lay on its banks, and we had scarcely dined,
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when we were invited to go on board a British ship of war that lay in the bay (the Glasgow, Captain Maitland). Accompanied by our Italian friends, off we sailed. There never was anything to equal the empressement of the officers and their kindness to me. I left them my fan, and they gave me one. They had tea for us, and I was so delighted with this most magnificent spectacle, that I went down between decks and saw three hundred sailors at supper, notwithstanding the heat was at one hundred degrees. The result was that the next day I was seized with rheumatism, &c., and never knew one hour’s health during the fortnight I remained there; still, I struggled against it, as I had so much to see, to learn, and to hear,—went about to visit all the palaces,—oh, such ancient splendour! Churches, hospitals, and institutions!—All the learned professors, head physicians, &c., waited on
Morgan. The Commander-in-Chief himself, who came to us the moment we arrived, with his aides de camp, accompanied him to the different hospitals, and he was solicited to give his opinion of the disorder of a young heir to a great family, which he did with success. This family, and that of the Marchese Pallaviccini, are the first in the town; they were among the first also to come forward. They asked us to a splendid ball and dinner, and we took so well that they insisted on our considering their table as ours, and dining with them every day. We did so as long as my health and the fatigue of going to their villa would admit of the thing. But oh, that you could see us going! You must know that the old republican streets of Genoa are so narrow,
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one excepted, that carriages cannot ply, as the town is built up against the Apennines, and the villa Pallaviccini is perched on the steepest; there is no going there, but being carried in sedan chairs, and this is the way Morgan and I went every day; for nothing but a goat and a Genoese chairman could scale those precipices. The night of the ball, all the officers of the Glasgow went in this manner. A propos, one of the officers came on shore to see us, and sent up his name, Mr. Marcus Brownrigg. It was no other than “I am your man, and I’ll carry your can,” thrown into a very charming and gentlemanly young man. I never saw so kind a creature. He said he had orders to bring the Captain’s boat and ten men for me as often as I pleased. He came with this set-out twice, and was in despair that I could not go. He wrote me an elegant note to tell me so, but alas! after near a fortnight’s struggle, and going out every day sick and weary, I was knocked down fairly, or rather foully, with a bilious complaint that threatened fever. There was no getting a breath of air,—I suffocated; however, Morgan was nurse, doctor, all, and himself far from well. In fact, in despair of my recovering in this scorching climate, he wrapped me up one fine morning and threw me from my bed to the carriage, and set off with me for Bologna. The moment we began to descend the mountains and get into the fresh, delicious plains of Lombardy, I recovered, and we both got well by the time we reached Parma, where the late empress of Europe reigns over a dreary, desolate, and gloomy country town. Her only amusement is the opera,
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and such an opera! a narrow lozenge box, lighted with five tallow candles. We staid to see the chm-ches and Correggio’s paintings, and would have staid longer, but we were entirely hunted out by the bugs. Modena, though a royal residence, is a sad set out, and the whole of this earthly paradise broken up into little states, neglected, poor, melancholy, presents but one great ruin. We gladly escaped from these little capitals to the lovely magnificent country. The vines festooned from tree to tree, present their luxurious fruit to any hand that will pluck them. It was the vintage, and I never saw such contrasts as the comfortless aspect and misery of the people, and the enchantment and plenty of the scenery.

Arrived at Bologna, we sent out our letters, and the next day were visited by all that was delightful and distinguished in the town. The Countess Semperiva, a young, pretty, clever widow, took us at once under her wing; her carriage was at our door every morning to take us to see the galleries, palaces, &c. She made a delightful dinner party for us, so did our banker, at his villa; a Madame Martinelli, the Beauty and Wit of Bologna, was equally kind, and made two very elegant evening parties for us; at the last we found Crescentini, singing some of his own delightful compositions at the piano, and Sir Humphrey and Lady Davy; nothing could be more cordial than he was, though he is completely turned into a fine man upon town. All the cleverest professors called on Morgan, and when he went to the hospitals he was complimented on his work (Outlines of the Physiology
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of Life), which, by-the-bye, has taken wonderfully in Italy, and procured him infinite fame; a second edition of the French translation has appeared. When we arrived at Bologna, they recommended us our apartments by telling us they were well aired, as
Lord Byron only left them the day before. You may suppose he came to Bologna to visit the learned body of that ancient university, or consult its famous library. Not a bit of it. He came to carry off a young lady.

The hotels at Florence are handsome, comfortable, and expensive. We set up at the Nova-Yorka, kept by an Englishwoman. Our arrival being known, some of the principal persons came to visit us instanter; the Prince Corsini (minister of the interior), Prince Borghese (Bonaparte’s brother-in-law), the Countess D’Albany, widow of the last Pretender, and the fair friend of Alfieri. Several of the learned came to see Morgan,—Lord Burghersh, the Ambassador, and Lady Burghersh, Lady Florence Lindsay, and her charming daughters, and lots of my Paris Wednesday evening acquaintances of all nations. The Countess D’Albany, who never goes out, asked us immediately; she is “at home” every evening, and holds quite a royal circle. All her fine gold plate, the finest I ever saw, was displayed. The circle is most formal, and you will scarce believe, and I am ashamed to say, she kept the seat of honour vacant for me, next herself. It was in vain, last night (for we go to her constantly), that when ambassadresses and princesses were announced, I begged to be allowed to retreat, she would not hear of it. You have no idea the sensation this makes among the folks
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here, as she is reckoned amazingly high and cold. She has remains of the beauty so praised by Alfieri. But the kindest of all persons is the minister, Corsini. He made a splendid dinner for us at his most magnificent palace, to which he invited all the noted literary characters in Tuscany; a réunion, they say, almost unknown here. We were invited to dine at the English Ambassador’s, where we had a large party. Last night we went to Madame D’Albany’s full of your letter, delighted with its dear, welcome contents, but quite tristes about
Moore. I had scarcely taken my seat by the legitimate Queen of England, when Lord Burghersh brought up a dashing beau, who was no other than “brave Colonel Camac,” who told me that he had been all day roving about looking for us, for a friend who had just arrived;—it was no other than Anacreon Moore! Accordingly, while we were at breakfast next morning, enter brave Colonel Camac and Moore! By the advice of all friends he has taken a trip to Italy, till something can be done to better his affairs; he travelled with Lord John Russell, but parted company with his lordship to visit his friend Byron, at Venice. Moore said we were expected at Venice, and that he had heard of us everywhere. Lord Byron bid Moore tell Morgan he would be happy to make his acquaintance, but not a word of encouragement to his “lady intellectual.” I never saw Moore gayer, better, or pleasanter. We have begged of him to come and breakfast with us every day, and he goes with me the day after to-morrow, to the Comic Opera, where I have Capponi’s box. He then runs off to Rome, Naples, and
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returns to Holyrood House, Edinburgh, where he settles down to write and arrange his affairs. What elasticity and everlasting youth! Pray call on his excellent mother and tell her all this; she will be delighted to hear of him. He feels about Italy much as we do. He told us
Morgan’s work, though attacked, has been treated with the greatest respect as an extraordinary though a dangerous book.

You will now like to know how the deuce we have got into a palace, into a suite of elegant and spacious apartments, filled with flowers such as are only found in Italy. (Moore says “how are we ever to leave it all.”) The fact is we are here in the thraldom of a fairy. Everything has been prepared for us; we want for nothing. A few days after our arrival, when we were sick of the expenses of our inn, comes a gentleman to say he is the Marquis de Capponi’s homme d’affaire that he has an apartment ready for us, an opera box, &c., &c., and here we are in a palace once belonging to the Prince Corsini. The palace Capponi is the finest I have seen, except the great Orsini, and a much more extensive building than Carlton House. There are apartments for every season: those of summer open into an orangery. The actions of its historical lords are painted on the walls of the great saloon. They have eight villas round Florence, at one of which we breakfasted the other day: one immense room laid out with curiosities and antiquities. Should the handsome Marchese Capponi call on you, (for he is now on his way to Ireland), tell him how gratefully I express myself. All the English
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say, we are the only strangers for whom the Italians make dinners. We were the other night at a party at
Mrs. Mostyn’s, (daughter of Mrs. Piozzi), where we met Lord and Lady George Thynne. Mrs. Piozzi is in high health and spirits at eighty. Meantime, in spite of all my friends can say, I am growing old, and now look forward only to living in your children, to whom I trust I shall be restored early in the spring, for the moment the Alps are open we set off, please God. I think half the Irish reform is owing to Florence Macarthy. I expect a statue from that enlightened and grateful people. The first thing I saw here in all the booksellers’ windows was my picture stuck up with a good translation of Florence Macarthy. It is well done, and the picture pretty, but not like. Bartolini, the famous sculptor, has shown us great civility. He has dedicated to me one of his best statues, a boy pressing grapes; the original is bought by Lord Beauchamp, and a cast done by himself is to be packed up and sent to Ireland for me. I shall be like the Vicar of Wakefield and his picture. I would willingly have made a visit to Italy blindfolded to have seen only the Gallery at Florence;—we go there every day. I read to Moore Lady Belvidere, and it made us all die laughing. We leave this for Rome on the 2nd of November.

S. M.

Lady Morgan did not in the least exaggerate the attention she received; for Moore in his diary, dated Florence, October 17, 1819, confirms every word.

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A little note from Moore, pleasant, and by no means romantic for a poet.

Thomas Moore to Sir C. Morgan.
Rome,
November 7th, 1819.
My dear Morgan,

I have only time for a line; but a line from Rome is worth a hundred from anywhere else. This place does not disappoint. There are some old brick walls to be sure, before which people stand with a delight and veneration in which I cannot sympathize; but the Coliseum is the very poetry of ruins. My leg, thanks to you and Goulard, arrived quite sound and well, and has never troubled me since.

I think of being off from here the latter end of this week. It was my intention at first to go to Naples, but Cannæ was by no means tempting, and then there is such talk of escort, &c., &c., that, what with the Colonel and the guards, I thought it much too dilatory a proceeding, and gave it up.

Love to Lady Morgan.

From hers and yours truly,
Thomas Moore.

The “son of Hortense,” so slightly passed in the next letter from Lady Morgan to her sister, was no other than Louis Napoleon, now Emperor of the French.

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Lady Morgan to Lady Clarke.
Rome, Via Del Angelo,
December 17, 1819.
My dear Love,

I received your letter at the foot of Antonines’ Pillar, and have seen nothing at Rome pleased me better—and now for our journey of seven days in the middle of December. We travelled in furs and rugs like Russian bears; but the climate softened as we proceeded—we found the trees in full leaf, and the enchanting, lovely, and diversified scenery wore a fine October appearance. The romantic views are beyond description—all the towns dreary ruins, too much for English spirits to stand; we ascended to many of them (Cortona and Perugia particularly) up perpendicular mountains, and the horns of the oxen that drew us, were on a level with the top of our carriage; but oh, the inns!!! We travelled with tea, sugar, tea-things and kettle, but from Florence to Rome we could get neither milk nor butter. There was but one fire-place in each inn, and that kept in the heat and let out the smoke. Our precious servant (a treasure) took care of us as if we were children, and made a fire in a crock in our bedroom, which, with stone floors, black rafters, and a bier for a bed, and the smell of the stable to regale us (for it generally opened to it) was quite beyond the reach of his art to make comfortable. We always set off before daylight and stop before dark. Thirty miles from Rome begins that fearful desert the
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Campagna, and then adieu to houses and population. We arrived, however, safe and sound, without even a cold; but the fatigues of travelling, and I think the climate, is terribly consuming. I think I look twenty years older than when you saw me. However, I am in excellent spirits and health, odds wrinkles!!!

The kindness of our Florence friends pursued, or rather devancés us here. The Princes Corsini and Borghese, who have the two finest palaces at Rome, wrote to their librarians and agents to be of use to us in every way. The Countess D’Albany wrote to the Duchess of Devonshire to say we were expected, and yesterday (the day after our arrival) are their invitations sent to us. The Princess Borghese (Pauline, Napoleon’s beautiful sister) has written to invite us to spend the evening, and the Duchess de Braciano, has asked us for every Thursday evening whilst we remain in Rome. To night we go to the Duchess of Devonshire, and after her soirée, to a concert at the Princess Borghese’s. The former wrote us the kindest of notes. I think you will like to hear something of Pauline. She is separated from Prince Borghese, who was so civil to us at Florence; but she lives in his superb palace here quite like a little queen! Nothing could equal her reception. She said it was noble in me not to fall heavy on the unfortunate, &c. I confess I do not see that exquisite beauty she was so celebrated for. She is, she says, much altered, and grown thin, fretting about her brother. Her dress, though demi-toilette, very superb; and the apartments, beyond
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beyond! She had a little circle, and she introduced us to the
son of Hortense (the ex-Queen of Holland), her nephew, and to a daughter of Lucien Bonaparte; when we were going away she put a beautiful music-book of the Queen of Holland, into our hands, to copy what songs we pleased.

The Eternal City disappoints at first entrance. I thought it mighty like an Irish town, shabby and dirty—we have yet seen nothing save St. Peter’s, to which we ran like mad the moment we arrived. The first impression of that disappointed too; the interior overwhelmed me! but not as I expected—but of such places and things it is impossible to speak with the little space a letter affords. The climate heavenly—orange trees in boxes out of every window, mignonette, &c.; young lamb, chickens, and salad every day. We have got into private lodgings, lots of visitors—Lord Fortescue and Lady Mary, Sir Thomas Lawrence (who has just shown us his picture of the Pope, that has left all the Italian painters in despair). I have two cardinals on my list of visitors. The Italian ladies dress as we do—the French toilette—some of them very fine creatures, a rich beauty, all glowing and bright—the most good-natured, caressing creatures. We get on famously with our Italian. I spoke all along the road to the common people, and got lots of information. Did I not tell you that Bartolini, of Florence, has done my bust in marble?—just as I had written so far, Canova called on us. He is delightful, and recalled Dénon to our recollection.

December 18.—We had a delightful party at the
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Duchess of Devonshire’s last night; divine singing; Lord John Russell was introduced to us (brother of the Duke of Bedford), and I flirted all the evening with the Prince of Mecklenburgh! On my return home to old Dublin, I shall feel as Martha did about sifting cinders. I have had a visit from the daughter of Monti, the famous poet.

Adieu,
S. M.

The following amusing account of a visitation from two bores is written in a journal of scraps kept whilst on her journey—this is the only finished entry. There are other things which, if finished, might have been entertaining, or if legible; but they are jotted down in memoranda as indications for her own memory, and are unintelligible to any one else. The present sketch of a morning with two Bores, has been recovered from MS., compared with which, ill-written Greek characters, or a cuneiform inscription, would be legible as fair Italian text-hand!

Bores and Prosers.

Enter Mrs. B—— and her brother, who prosed me out of Spa, begged me from Lausanne, and hummed me into such a lethargy at Geneva that it is a mercy I was not buried alive! They are the best poor dears on earth—and there’s the worst of it.

I had my cheek kissed by the sister, and my hand by the brother, for ten minutes at least, by the town clock—not rapid electrics, but long-drawn kisses,
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against all character of kissing, which, if it be not electric, is nothing.

The kissing over, the prosing began.

Mrs. B—— took the lead, comme de raison, opened the campaign d’ennui, with unwonted vigour; the fun was to see her brother deliberately taking up his posture of patience, like a general on active service, his heavy lids gently falling over his heavy eyes, his very nostrils breathing stupefaction.

Observe, for it is good to know the outer and visible signs of our natural enemies, Bores have noses peculiar to themselves. The nose of a German Bore is a sort of long, broad, romantic, rather aquiline, and rather drooping nose—the drooping nose characterises invariably the nosology of a bore—in a word, it is the leading feature.

But to return; Mrs. B—— began with an account of her journey. Not a stage, not a turn in the road, not a cross that I had gone over six days before but was described to me, first en gros and then en détail; but this was nothing—at least it was fact, topographical fact—but to my utter despair, every village, town, and house, “put her in mind” of some cottage, town, road, street, or something, in Ireland, Scotland, or England—something had happened to her in one or all of the aforesaid places. But still this was nothing; they were graphic pictures, however ill-drawn—it was the moral demonstrations, the particular parentheses, which left me without hope, help, or resource; every beggar, post, landlord, or landlady, “put her in mind” of her mother’s housemaid, who used to say when
126 LADY MORGAN'S MEMOIR.  
called to warm the bed, &c. Boots put her so strongly in mind of her grandfather, by having a wart on his left cheek, that I trembled lest the course of association should carry us back to the founder of the family of Bores, which would have thrown us back to the memories of the Pre-Adamites, had not the entrance of a goûté cut her short, for ah! there is nothing short about bores but stopping their mouths by filling it with ice-cream. This was the moment for her brother, who cut in nobly to open his entrenchments. The whole family are of the breed of those dealers in art, science, and literature, who gave rise to the caution, “Drink deep or taste not.”

The dear B——’s have drunk like sparrows and swelled like crows, but drunk a little of everything, “from humble port to imperial tokay,” and it is this that renders them more tiresome in their prosy scraps than the most obdurate ignorance could ever make itself. No one could be in the room a moment after Mr. B—— came in, without knowing that he was a geologist, botanist, archæologist,—everything. He began by complaining of all he had suffered from heat, and I gave him my whole share of sympathy! But when he got upon the causes, and talked of the fundamental laws of nature, I started up in the midst of a diatribe on cosmogony, and in despair, exclaimed, “My dear Mr. B——, you are aware that God made the world in six days, and did not say one word about cosmogony!” It might be thought that was a hard hit;—not at all, he took it gravely and began a disquisition on the Mosaic account. The word Moses over-
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came all my power of face, and I burst out in a fit of laughter, for by one of Mrs. B——’s “put-me-in minds,” Moses put me in mind that in Ireland we call a bore “a Mosey,” and there was something so utterly Moseyish in the look and manner of the proser, that the ridiculous application was too much for me, and I owed him, perhaps, one of the pleasantest sensations in the world, that of laughing, not wisely, but too well. I have now made out my case of bore-phobia.

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